Fear and Loathing in Laos

in Culture

One of the first things I did after arriving in Bangkok was purchase a pack of Marlboros from 7-Eleven, which in Southeast Asia sells microwavable curry and instant noodles instead of slushies and hot dogs. I had made a small effort at quitting during the winter, but after the 30-hour journey I felt like I deserved a cigarette. I planned on smoking only one and giving the rest away, but unsurprisingly ended up finishing the entire pack. Then one pack became two packs, and so on and so on. Two months later, I’m too embarrassed to keep count.

Hiding from the sun in the shadow of a Buddhist temple, my nicotine rush faded and gave way to disappointment. At least I wasn’t the only one lacking self-control, though. Backpacking through Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam, you find no shortage of people who are temporarily turning a blind eye to their vices. Potheads gravitate towards the neon-lit dispensaries of Bangkok’s Khaosan Road. Vegetarians adjust their diets to try out fried crickets, skewered frogs, and other delicacies. Horny adolescents risk going on Tinder dates in Laos, a country where – just Google this if you don’t believe me – having sex with a non-national could land you in jail. Day drinking and chain smoking are the norm, not the exception. 

Photo by Tim Brinkhof

Part of me had hoped Southeast Asia’s spiritual aura would help me master my addiction, but this was not the case. The closest I got to interacting with a monk was when I handed one a bowl of white rice on the streets as they made their daily rounds begging for food. I saw them everywhere – not only inside temples, but also at convenience stores, train stations, and airport lobbies. 

Their bald heads and bright …

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Author: Tim Brinkhof / High Times

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